THE POWER AND THE GLORY

Book cover of Bilgeri: Geschichte Vorarlbergs, Band III.

Many years ago, back in the early 1990s, I was engaged at the EFTA Secretariat in Geneva and busy with servicing the EEA negotiations. These were engaging times, preparing notes on tough negotiation issues and finalising them with representatives of the Member countries. The most pleasant contacts were had with two young fellows from Liechtenstein, Markus and Hubertus, who appeared to have just about finished college and were eager to embark on this great negotiation venture. We have kept in contact ever since, even if Markus is sadly not with us anymore.

In early 1991, when I happened to pass by Liechtenstein on my way to Vienna, to participate in the vivid Carnival ball season there, I paid those fellows a visit. They welcomed me with open arms and we spent a nice day together, discussing world events with a fervour that only young people can possess. Over coffee, suddenly, Markus presented me with a gift, a thick volume written by a certain Bilgeri, and asked me whether I was related to the famous Emser.

I was speechless. Had never heard of this illustirous family of Ems, with large dominions in the Alpine Rhine Valley, and known as generals, arch bishops and diplomats. So, when I came back to Geneva, after a week of frolicking in Vienna, I hastened to open the book and read up on the subject matter. Not an easy task, since this was only volume III of Bilgeris History of Vorarlberg and, even so, counted fully 350 pages. But it was worth it.

Before my wide open eyes, a thousand years of history evolved, full of tales of wonder, about the house of Ems. The Emser originated from a patrician domain near Chur in present day Canton Grison of Switzerland, eventually moved down the Rhine and built a fortress, called Castrum Alta Emisa (Castle of Hohenems), South of Lake Constance, at a place that still carries its name. The family had it all. Just a few highlights: On behalf of a Hohenstaufen Emperor they held the last Norman King of Sicily in captivity, blinded and in chains; somewhat later, they bore a Minnesänger, known all over Europe for his World History in rhyme; during the centuries after the Great Plague they were involved, as commander of mercenary troupes and general, in most of the major wars fought in Europe at the time, with theatres ranging from Swabia to Italy, from Marocco and Corsica, via Southern France, to the Spanish Netherlands, and from Lake Constance to Hungary, with the last battles fought in the Great War against the Turks on the Balkans in the early 1700s.

As well as fierce warriors, they were also crafty and successful diplomats. Through marriage into the Northern line of the Medici from Milano, they became brother-in-law, nephew and grand nephew of a pope, which raised the latter two to the ranks of Cardinal and Prince-Archbishop (of Salzburg). Concurrently, the Habsburg Emperor honoured the family for their services, to the house of Habsburg as well as to the Empire, by conferring to it the hereditary title of Imperial Count.

Shield of Cardinal Merk Sittich II von Hohenems

Alas, soon after this zenith of successes came the downfall. After the Thirty Years' War, and partly due to it, the Emser started to lose their possessions in the Alpine Rhine Valley until, by 1715, there was nothing left. Sic transit gloria mundi!

I am a laid-back man, not prone to put too much effort into research. Thus, I was quite satisfied with the knowledge gained by pursuing Bilgeri's books, and had no intentions of boring deeper into history. But I still took care to spread the good news about our namesakes to my brothers and their children. To my surprise, my youngest brother Ludwig got hooked on the Emser story and spent considerable time, over the years, in researching their saga in more detail. As a result, he presented me with a book, as my 70th birthday gift, wherein he had collected all possible details about the history of house Ems.

Subsequently, he raised the idea that we three brothers, Emil, Richard and Ludwig, should undertake a journey of discovery, following the Emser in their footsteps and inspecting important sites that still bear witness to the deeds of this glorious family. This we will do, starting Sunday after Easter and I will try to keep you abreast of our experiences.

Three Emser in their heydays – they are a bit older now!

As you can see from the title of this blog, we see ourselves inspired by another "Voyage à trois", made some hundred years ago. Those forebearers went by boat, whereas we will go by car. Their book was originally intended as a serious travel guide, but it evolved into a rather spirited and funny recital of adventures on the river Thames. I would hope that this blog may evolve in the same manner. I will start with some serious chapters about history, but, who knows, some fresh humorous impressions from places we will visit may well start to sneak in eventually! Cheers!

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Permit me to dedicate this blog post to my dear friend Markus Büchel, former Prime Minister of Liechtenstein, who sadly passed away in his prime. Requiesca in pace, dear friend!

Markus Büchel with his spouse Elena.