THE POWER AND THE GLORY

Book cover of Bilgeri (1977): Geschichte Vorarlbergs, Band III.

Many years ago, in the early 1990s, I was engaged at the EFTA Secretariat in Geneva, busy servicing the EEA negotiations. Those were engaging times, preparing notes on challenging negotiation issues and finalising positions together with representatives from the member countries. The most pleasant contacts were made with two young fellows from Liechtenstein, Markus and Hubertus, who had just finished college and were eager to embark on this new negotiation venture. We have kept in touch ever since, even though Markus is sadly no longer with us.

In early 1991, when I happened to pass by Liechtenstein on my way to Vienna to participate in the vibrant Carnival ball season there, I paid a visit to those fellows. They welcomed me with open arms, and we spent a lovely day together, discussing world events with a passion that only young people can possess. During coffee, Markus suddenly presented me with a gift, a hefty volume written by a certain Bilgeri (Bilgeri [1977]: Geschichte Vorarlbergs, Band III), and asked me whether I was related to the famous Emser.

I was speechless. I had never heard of this illustrious family of Ems, known for their extensive dominions in the Alpine Rhine Valley, as well as being generals, archbishops, and cardinals. So, when I returned to Geneva after a week of frolicking in Vienna, I hastened to open the book and read up on the subject. It was not an easy task since this was only volume III of Bilger's History of Vorarlberg, and still comprised a full 350 pages. But it was worth it.

Before my wide-open eyes, a thousand years of history unfolded, filled with wondrous tales about the House of Ems. The Emser were thought to have originated from a region near Chur in present-day Canton Grisons, Switzerland, eventually migrating down the Rhine to govern a fortress known as Castrum Alta Emisa (Castle of Hohenems), located south of Lake Constance, in a place that still carries the name of Hohenems.

 

The family had it all. Here are just a few highlights: On behalf of a Hohenstaufen Emperor, they held the last Norman King of Sicily in captivity, blinded and in chains; somewhat later, they produced a great poet renowned throughout Europe for his World History in rhyme. In the centuries following the Great Plague, they were involved, as commanders of mercenary troops, in most of the major wars fought in Europe at the time, with theatres ranging from Swabia to Italy, from Morocco and Corsica, through Southern France, to the Spanish Netherlands, and from Lake Constance to Hungary, with the final battles fought against the Turks in the early 1700s and in the War of the Austrian Succession in the mid-century.

Shield of Cardinal Merk Sittich II von Hohenems

Alas, soon after this zenith of successes came the downfall. Following the Thirty Years' War, which contributed to it, the Emser eventually fell into disarray and were forced to sell half of their lands to the Liechtensteiner in the early 1700s. Sic transit gloria mundi!

I am a laid-back man, willing to put only a little effort into research. Consequently, I was satisfied with the knowledge gained from reading Bilgeri's book and had no intention of pursuing these findings further. Nonetheless, I still shared the good news about our namesakes with my brothers and their children. To my surprise, my youngest brother Ludwig became engrossed in the Emser story and dedicated considerable time, over the years, to researching their saga in more detail. As a result, he presented me with a booklet for my 70th birthday, in which he had gathered all available information on the history of House Ems.

Subsequently, he raised the idea that we three brothers, Emil, Richard and Ludwig, should undertake a journey of discovery, following the Emser in their footsteps and inspecting important sites that still bear witness to the deeds of this glorious family. We will do this starting Sunday after Easter, and I will try to keep you updated on our experiences.

Three Emser in their heydays – they are a bit older now!

As you can see from the title of this blog, we find ourselves inspired by another "Voyage à trois" made some hundred years ago. Those forebears went by boat, whereas we will travel by car. Their book was initially meant to be a serious travel guide, but it evolved into a rather spirited and humorous recounting of adventures on the River Thames. I hope this blog evolves in a similar way. I will begin with some serious chapters about history, but who knows, some fresh, humorous impressions from the places we visit may start to sneak in! Cheers!

-o-

Allow me to dedicate this blog post to Markus Büchel, former Prime Minister of Liechtenstein, who sadly passed away during his prime. "Requiesce in pace!" dear friend.

Markus Büchel with his spouse Elena.